Falling for Canada & New England

When the east coast of North America erupts in a riot of fall colours, there’s no better way to catch one of nature’s great shows than cruising its famous waters.

It’s a serene and ethereal experience: the cruise ship glides quietly down the Saguenay River past lighthouses on rocky outcrops amid a seemingly endless forest. The leaves are turning yellow, the first sign of fall, and every so often we drift past remote colonial towns and quaint fishing villages which are a throwback to a bygone era.

It’s unbelievably quiet. Even the sea birds flying overhead make little sound and it’s hard to believe places like this actually still exist, and then the gorge on either side of the river becomes even steeper. In some parts it’s almost 500 metres on each side, rising almost straight up from the river, and then we see her - the statue of Notre Dame du Saguenay standing regally on top of Cape Trinity. At seven and a half metres and weighing three tons, "the Dame" was built to honour the Virgin Mary by a travelling salesman who tried to cross the ice on the river and then fell into the freezing waters. His recollection was that he was thrown back onto the ice, with his horse and cart, and he was so moved he paid for its construction in 1881.

Cruising the waters of Canada and New England in Autumn is more than just a way of experiencing the change of colours in the foliage - it’s also a passage back in time and one of the most pleasant ways of enjoying the natural beauty of this rugged region. The journey is confirmation that it is possible to escape civilisation, albeit in the comfort of a luxury cruise ship, and on board the Crystal Symphony, their 11-day Fall Splendors cruise is one of the best ways to experience one of nature's great shows in six star luxury.

The peak time for cruising in the fall varies, but generally September and October are best, but even if Mother Nature doesn’t co-operate, it’s an experience that’s not just for the “leaf peepers”. Historical cities, picture-postcard ports, deserted islands and the untouched wilderness is what makes this an increasingly popular way to journey the maritime provinces of Canada and the eastern seaboard of the United States.

Most people associate cruising with exotic tropical destinations such as the Caribbean, Tahiti and Hawaii, but the cool-clime Canada-New England run is increasing in popularity each year as discerning travellers look for an alternative to steel drums and palm trees.

Itineraries for cruising this region vary, but for sheer diversity it's hard to beat the Crystal Symphony's Fall Splendors voyage. For a start, it begins in Montréal - considered by many visitors to be one of the most "European" of North American cities, having joyously preserved and honoured the soul of its founding French and British cultures.

At street level, Montréal's Gallic roots are the stronger of the two cultures. French is the language of choice for the majority of the population (although almost everyone here is bilingual), and the architecture is a reminder why this is the case. Busy sidewalk cafés, cobblestone streets, wrought iron balconies, designer fashion boutiques - it could be an enclave of Paris and a wander into historic Old Montréal is a throwback to the 17th century.

The heart of the city is set between the modern skyscrapers of the Downtown and the St Lawrence River. Old Montréal is a maze of narrow cobblestone streets winding past architectural masterpieces representing every era of the city’s development, dating back to its foundation in 1642. The neo-gothic Notre Dame Basilica, opened in 1829, is perhaps the most impressive of all the sights in Old Montréal and a light show is held every evening at 6.30pm and showcases the amazing exterior and interior.

It’s just one of around 20 architectural attractions within a few square kilometres and “getting lost” in Old Montréal is not the least bit frustrating. Overlooking the city is Mont Royale which is a sprawling park and the favourite place for joggers, walkers and bladers in the summer, and for cross country skiiers when the snow hits.Whatever the weather, the locals celebrate and embrace life with a passion and the café culture has strengthened the city’s reputation for innovative and inspiring dining options.

Departing Montréal is heart breaking, but that’s forgotten by the next morning as the Crystal Symphony glides towards Québec City, a small jewel with three facets: the colonial settlement on the riverbanks, the walled city atop the cliff that towers above, and the modern metropolis that has spread far outside the walls. Towering regally over Québec City is one of the world's most recognisable hotels, Le Château Frontenac, which revels in its 19th century grandeur and commands sweeping views of the St Lawrence River. From down river the sight of Québec City is nothing short of magical and it resembles a scene from a fairy tale.

With old stone houses wedged between cosy cafés and bistros, and original centuries-old horse drawn carriages clip-clopping past on cobble stone streets, it's easy to feel transported back in time. Like Montréal, the people of Québec City embrace their French history with a passion and celebrate living in this great city with an infectious exuberance. A relatively compact city, Québec is a walker’s dream. There’s a photo op on almost every corner, the smell of baguettes and roasting coffee permeate the streets, and there are sweeping views of the surrounding countryside to be savoured from atop the walled city. Québec City is  the only North American fortified city north of Mexico, where the walls still exist.

A couple of sea days on the Saguenay and St Lawrence Rivers provides the perfect opportunity to explore the ship which is one of the most luxurious at sea, and has recently undergone a multi-milllion dollar refurbishment. The Crystal Symphony Staterooms, most with private verandahs, are luxuriously appointed and remarkably spacious. Forget any preconceived images of bunk beds and tiny portholes - this is a six-star hotel on water.

The Symphony’s designers resisted eye-popping glitz in favour of low-key elegance throughout and if she was a woman, she’d be an Audrey Hepburn or a Grace Kelly. Her exterior is equally as pleasing on the eye; sleek, classical lines, and not an ugly aft “spoiler” nor a bulbous bow in sight. She has a maximum capacity of 940 guests, and with 545 crew, it ensures the level of service is second to none and perhaps its greatest feature, apart from the staterooms, is the choice and quality of dining. The Crystal Dining Room is a classic, while Prego offers specialty Italian, and for lovers of Asian food Jade Garden receives rave reviews from most who are lucky enough to secure a booking.

Throughout the day more casual dining is available, from the Lido Café and Trident Grill on Deck 11 to The Bistro coffee lounge and Palm Court which hosts the afternoon teas. The sea days are also a great opportunity to indulge in a bit of pampering, and the Crystal Spa and Salon is a peaceful retreat with an Asian theme based on the principles of Feng Shui.

As we left the St Lawrence behind and entered the Atlantic, some of the other guests were recounting horror stories of past cruises where eight metre waves battered their ship, forcing an emergency port layover for repairs. Not this time though, the Atlantic was like glass and behaved itself as we cruised into Halifax, Nova Scotia. Perched on the edge of one of the largest natural harbours in the world, Halifax has undergone a major transformation from a port town frequented by sea dogs to a world class tourist destination which has embraced its maritime past.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, was founded in 1749 as the first British city in North America and has since been a significant port and a major strategic military hub, and it remains the modern heart of Atlantic Canada. English and Scottish immigrants, under the protection of British forces, formed the backbone of the new settlement and today it’s the most Anglophile of all the Canadian cities, and proud of it. At street level, Victorian architecture, fish and chip shops, English pubs and red double decker buses are obvious symbols of Halifax’s past and present, and it’s not uncommon to hear a lone bagpiper in the distance.

There’s a good chance the ‘piper is wandering the ramparts of the Citadel - an imposing and perfectly preserved fortress which has stood sentinel over the city and its surrounds since 1856. The 78th Highlanders and 3rd Brigade, Royal Artillery have been recreated on site by the Halifax Citadel Regimental Association which is a volunteer group which performs music and re-enactments of British military life.

Halifax's numerous historic and cultural attractions are all within walking distance, from the Citadel itself to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, Maritime Command Museum, and the breathtaking harbour. A short distance away is the symbol of Canada's strength and resilience and Peggy's Cove is a photographer's dream set on a point in a classic fishing village with rugged cliffs and ocean as its backdrop. It’s a picturesque if touristy fishing village - famous for a whitewashed lighthouse which doubles up as a post office. The journey through pristine countryside was impressive enough on its own. At almost every winding turn of the highway; mirror-like lakes, brightly-painted cottages, and a sweeping landscape with enough autumn colours to make you feel like you’re in an Edward Hopper watercolour.

Another sea day allowed us to catch our breath for the final slew of ports along the north Atlantic coastline. The first was Bar Harbor, and no visit to New England is complete without enjoying the special experience of a Maine lobster. Bar Harbor prides itself on the freshness and quality of its crustaceans which is justified, and its laid-back vibe is  a relaxing prelude to the big-city hustle and bustle of Boston.

Boston remains the link between Europe and United States and the place where that cord was severed, and with its Old World charm, it’s a unique city with a genuine warmth. It's a cosmopolitan city combining modern sophistication with the old world charm of early Americana. Few cities juxtapose old and new like Boston does, with modern skyscrapers soaring amid street after brick-sidewalked street of 18th and 19th century townhouses and churches.

In Boston, sometimes it seems that everything has a historical marker attached to it - and the colonial granddaddy of them all is the Freedom Trail - a walking tour which starts on the Boston Common at Massachusetts State House. The trail meanders through the city centre and several surrounding neighbourhoods, passing more than a dozen historic sites; the Old State House, the Paul Revere House, old Burial Grounds, the site of the Boston Massacre and the Old North Church. It’s a true walk into history, bringing to life many of the events which exploded onto the world during the American Revolution.

Another day and another pretty port, this time Newport, Rhode Island, home of the America’s Cup and playground of the fabulously wealthy. The cliffside walk offers great views of the fantastic yachts in harbour and back from the water is where you’ll find some of North America’s most opulent mansions.

And to top all of this off, perhaps the highlight of the cruise: sailing into New York Harbor past Lady Liberty herself and under the shadows of the Manhattan skyline. Seeing New York and its harbour from the water gives it a totally new perspective, and on the Promenade deck everyone is quiet. It’s an overwhelming and humbling way to end a great journey.