Temples of Gods & Pharaohs

The Eastern Mediterranean is home to some of the great ancient civilisations, and cruising the region means they can be “rediscovered” in comfort and style.

As the sun drops and casts a warm orange hue across the city, the now-familiar Call to Prayer reverberates across the Bosphorus River from one of the many mosques that dominate the skyline.

Traditional ferryboats cruise past carrying a mix of office workers on their way home, and suburbanites heading for an evening out, and on the outside decks many of the locals are sipping tea and taking in the magnificent view.

In the distance, the Topkapi Palace, the Basilica of Saint Sophia and the Blue Mosque change colour as they’re lit up for the evening, as if to confirm these are the city’s “crown jewels”.

After just a day in Istanbul, sensory overload has already kicked in and it’s no wonder this place is routinely called one of the great cities of Europe ... and Asia.

Straddling the imposing Bosphorus River which serves as a geographic border, Istanbul literally has a foot in each continent and is at the crossroads of the West and the Islamic world.

For thousands of years it’s been a maritime city of great historical and strategic importance - from the early Greeks who founded the city as Byzantium in 658 BC - and the Persians, Alexander the Great, the Roman Empire and modern Turkish conquerors have all claimed Istanbul.

Sailing into, or out of, Istanbul is an experience which goes some way towards gaining a sense of its rich history - and it was a fitting start on a 12 day cruise aboard the Crystal Serenity which included the architectural grandeur of some of the great civilisations including the Pyramids of Giza, the Acropolis of Athens, the ancient city of Ephesus, medieval Rhodes and the stunning beauty of Santorini.

Our overnight stay in Istanbul on board the Serenity allowed for a day and a half to explore Turkey’s most populous city, and sailing out at night provided a moving kaleidoscope of illuminated minarets against the cityscape which slowly faded into the darkness.

A leisurely day cruising the Dardanelles followed, giving us time to relax a little and explore the ship. Together with sister ship, the Symphony, the Crystal Serenity has claimed the prestigious Travel+Leisure magazine’s “World’s Best Large Ship Cruise Line” award for the past 12 consecutive years.

A floating five star resort with a maximum of just 1,080 passengers, she’s a spacious and elegant vessel fusing luxury facilities with European-style service. Crystal’s cruise experience is a world of fine wines and gourmet dining, and where you arrive in style at an exciting destination on most mornings.

Food is a major part of the cruise experience today, and in recent years Crystal has raised the bar on fine dining at sea. The Serenity has five top quality dining venues to choose from, including the Asian themed Silk Road, inspired by the Japanese master chef, Nobu, and the classic Italian, Prego.

Selected cruises also have a specific food and wine theme - ours included. Among the many culinary treats was a demonstration by the world-renowned chef, Anton Mosimann, and a specially prepared banquet showcasing some of his exquisite cuisine.

It’s possible to spend an entire cruise aboard a ship like this and never venture ashore, or skip certain destinations on a busy itinerary in favour of a sleep in. But this cruise had unmissable sights at every stop.

From Kusadasi, we hired a motorbike and took a trip out to the nearby ancient city of Ephesus - arguably the Aegean’s best preserved antiquity. On good advice we parked the bike at the bottom of the of the hill, and took a local taxi to the top gate to start our downward trek of this ancient, ruined city.

When Ephesus was at the height of its Golden Age - the second century AD - it was home to more than 300,000 people, and in spite of its inland location was one of the principal ports of the Mediterranean. There are many important sights to pack into a visit here: the Arcadian Way, the Roman Forum, the restored Celsus Library and the theatre.

The following day, the Greek island of Rhodes proved the surprise destination of the cruise. The island is steeped in mythology and legend, and although it has a reputation as a holiday destination, the capital’s old town is a maze of narrow cobbled streets and old buildings, presided over by a turreted Castello.

After another sea day it was time for the highlight of an itinerary full of highlights - the only remaining one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Pyramids of Giza.

Ask anyone what symbol represents ancient Egypt, and the answer will inevitably be the Pyramids and the Great Sphinx. In truth all the photographs of these great structures fail to do them justice - seen up close against the vast expanse of desert on one side and the sprawling city of Cairo on the other, this is the type of experience that has led to the big unanswered question: how did they build this.

It was a question that kept running through my head as we headed for the stunning volcanic island of Santorini, en route to Athens where this journey ended with an overnight.

Of course, it was appropriate to finish atop the Acropolis in the shadow of the Parthenon - another awe-inspring symbol of the ancient world. The heart and soul of Greece, it’s undergoing a major renovation which began in 1983 and continues.

Despite the scaffolding, its splendour remains, and as the poet Ralph Waldo Emerson wrote: “Earth proudly wears the Parthenon as the best gem upon her zone.”